I recently escaped to Halkidiki with Miro, our very first time in this corner of Greece, and it was nothing short of restorative. I had booked the trip all the way back in 2024 with three things in mind: first, I wanted somewhere reliably hot to retreat to once London’s “summer” inevitably betrayed me; second, I craved the simplest of luxuries: days spent stretched on a beach with nothing but books, sunscreen, and an excuse to do absolutely nothing; and third, I knew that to experience Greece “properly,” planning ahead was non-negotiable. It’s no secret that the country is expensive when done right, so booking a year in advance felt like the smartest way to lock in value without compromise, and it paid off.
We landed in Thessaloniki on a blazing Thursday morning, grabbed our rental car, and stopped at a chic local café called Naked for coffee (consider this your must-visit note). Though Thessaloniki was instantly charming, the real destination awaited us: Afytos. This little seaside village became our base for the long weekend, and from there we explored Halkidiki’s beaches, markets, and other tucked-away gems until Sunday.
I’ve never considered myself a “beach holiday” person — I’m usually restless after a day of sun and sea, but Halkidiki shifted something for me. The pace of life is slower, the people are disarmingly warm, and the food? Divine. Think plates of fresh fish, grilled octopus, and ripe tomatoes bursting with flavour, all at refreshingly gentle prices compared to other Mediterranean hot spots. Accommodation will be your biggest expense here, but it’s worth investing in comfort; it transforms the entire experience.
Unlike the better-known Greek islands — Mykonos, Santorini, Crete — Halkidiki hasn’t yet been entirely swallowed up by mass tourism. There’s still a rawness, a sense of discovery, a kind of stripped-down joy. I left with the conviction that I’ll return in 2026 or 2027, life permitting.
I hope this little guide tempts you to carve out your own Halkidiki escape — to pause, reset, and find pleasure in the simplicity of sun, sea, and unhurried living.
Stay Here!
Elies 33 Bio Retreat
When I was searching for accommodation in Halkidiki, I had one non-negotiable: I wanted serenity. Elies 33 Bio Retreat stood out immediately because it’s adults-only (no offence to families, but this trip was about quiet, rest, and a slower rhythm). The rooms are minimal yet comfortable, the grounds beautifully maintained, and the setting feels cocooned in calm. I also wanted the hotel to have on-site parking, which the hotel offers for free.
The only downside was a slight mustiness in the room — something I’ve often experienced in hot climates where opening doors isn’t an option due to mosquitoes and flies. It wasn’t a deal-breaker, just worth noting.
Additionally, the retreat doesn’t have a gym, but in the mornings, I’d unroll a mat overlooking a small gazebo designed for yoga and Pilates while Miro headed out for a run. Every Saturday, they host an 8:30 am yoga session, which adds to the wellness atmosphere.
There’s a small but private beach accessible via a winding path — lovely, though not the easiest approach for everyone. If that feels like too much, the swimming pool is beautifully done and surrounded by chic loungers. Do note that beach towels are charged separately, which always feels unnecessary at a hotel of this calibre.
Breakfast is modest but delicious. My absolute highlight was the granola bowl with thick, creamy Greek yoghurt — the best I’ve tasted anywhere.
For those craving something a little more polished (and who don’t mind children being around), Sani Resort is another excellent option nearby.
Eat Here!
Ta Glarakia
This little taverna on Afytos Beach became our obsession. Miro and I ate here for nearly every lunch and dinner — not out of laziness, but because it was that good. The seafood is the star: impossibly fresh, simply prepared, and bursting with flavour—Greek cooking at its finest.
We tried a few non-seafood dishes, but honestly? Stick to what they do best. The atmosphere is equally charming: it’s family-run, relaxed, and unpretentious. On one afternoon there, we watched a boy, no older than seven, wander in from the shore carrying small fish he’d caught himself, which were then cooked by the kitchen. It doesn’t get more authentic than that.
Lemonis Bakery
I have a weakness for Greek, Turkish, and Persian sweets, so finding Lemonis was inevitable. It’s a charming bakery where the best bets are the traditional Greek pastries and sweets (skip the bread!). Paired with a strong coffee, it was the perfect evening indulgence.
Gelateria Ksilaki Nikitas
A day trip to Nikiti led us to this gelateria, which has a reputation for being the best in town. The reviews were right. The gelateria offers generous scoops, a beautifully creamy texture, and flavours that feel both indulgent and refreshing. It's an absolute must!
Drink Here!
Sea You Bar, Sani
Part bar, part spectacle. Perched beside the marina at Sani Resort, Sea You Bar overlooks a parade of yachts so big they feel like floating hotels. The vibe is polished, international, and effortlessly chic. Order a cocktail (or in my case, an ice cream that turned out to be one of the best I’ve ever had) and settle in for an evening of people- and yacht-watching.
Shop Here!
Xenia Gaia
Shopping in Afytos can be hit and miss. Many boutiques lean toward the tourist trap side, filled with trinkets you’ll regret lugging home. But Xenia Gaia was a refreshing exception. Thoughtfully curated, it stocks locally inspired pieces at fair prices. I picked up a small amphora bottle, local olive oil, and honey.
Nikiti Market
Held every Friday morning from 8:30 am to around 1:30 pm, Nikiti Market is a feast for the senses. Stalls overflow with figs, grapes, olives, local honey, olive oils, essential oils, and traditional baked goods. I left with sweet bread that I devoured in days, a lemon-scented oil I now use in my hair, and the sense that this was Nikiti at its most grounded and authentic.
If you’re staying longer, do a Google search for The Weekly Markets of Chalkidiki. We didn’t explore others, but Nikiti was a highlight.
Beach here!
Afytos Beach
Although it may be busier than some other nearby beaches, Afytos Beach offers the perfect balance of life and leisure. Restaurants and bars line the coast, the water is sparkling, and the vibe is lively without ever being overwhelming. If you want a beach that offers both atmosphere and convenience, this is it.
Sanctuary of Apollo Kanastrea
For something more secluded and atmospheric, head to the Sanctuary of Apollo Kanastrea at the southernmost tip of Kassandra. It’s a spot that marries history and nature: olive groves, a small church, hiking paths, and even a wild, unspoiled beach. Less polished, but infinitely rewarding.
