Editor’s Note: I was deeply saddened by the tragic tram incident in Lisbon on September 3rd. My thoughts are with the victims and their loved ones. This Lisbon journal was written before the incident.

My first trip to Lisbon was in 2022, during that odd in-between phase of the pandemic—when strict COVID “stay at home” rules were easing, but travel was still conditional on being vaccinated and testing negative before departure and return. Honestly, it felt like a hassle, and I wouldn’t have gone if it weren’t for two things: this trip was originally planned for 2020, and both British Airways and the Corinthia Hotel in Lisbon had generously allowed me to reschedule. Plus, I had just returned from Copenhagen to London, was working in investment banking, and desperately needed a short break to get away.

And wow—Lisbon completely stole my heart. So much so that I’ve now been three times, the most recent being a longer trip that allowed Miro (my partner) and me to explore more of Portugal. I know I say this about many cities, but Lisbon is genuinely special to me—and I’m sure to many others. If I had to narrow it down, it’s the perfect mix of good weather, fantastic food, warm and kind people, ease of getting around, and the endless list of things to see and do.

Writing this guide makes me want to pack my bags and move there tomorrow—though that’s probably just a fantasy (I don’t speak Portuguese, and I have too many responsibilities here). Still, if I can’t move there, I can certainly visit—and I’m already eyeing 2026 for my next trip. Until then, I hope this guide helps you plan your visit or inspires you to see why so many fall in love with this incredible city.

Love, Tofi Caroline xx 

Stay Here!
Corinthia Lisbon
I can only recommend this hotel because it’s the only one I’ve stayed at during my trips to Lisbon. But honestly, that’s partly because of the name. It’s Corinthia, after all—you expect five-star service and luxury, and that’s exactly what you get. The real standout, though, is the customer service. They were more than accommodating when I had to delay my stay by two years. Even better, I’ve been upgraded to a suite every single time I’ve stayed here.

The breakfast is superb, with a spread that could keep you happy until dinner. There’s also a gym and spa, which I didn’t use, but they look fantastic from the photos alone.

That said, there are three small drawbacks: First, it’s a bit more expensive than other hotels in more central areas, but this is Corinthia, and booking well in advance usually brings the cost down. Second, it’s not in the city centre, but the hotel makes up for it with a free shuttle service to and from the heart of Lisbon. Third, the age group skews older, and it’s quite family-oriented. Personally, I enjoy that; it offers a different atmosphere than what I’m used to in London, where families and older guests tend to be more concentrated in the suburbs.

Eat vs. DON’T Eat Here!
Time Out Market 
I’ve always loved Time Out Markets. I trust Time Out, CN Traveller, and The Infatuation implicitly when it comes to the best bars, restaurants, and lifestyle recommendations, so if a city has a Time Out Market, it’s a no-brainer—I’m going. I’ve been to the one in New York and it never let me down, so when I found out Lisbon had its own, it went straight to the top of my list.

What I love about the Lisbon location is that it feels like a curated collection of the city’s best restaurants, each with its own little outpost under one roof. The variety is incredible, but my personal highlights were Restaurante Cervejaria and Pinoquio Lisbon—I’m a sucker for a great seafood spot, and both delivered dishes that were fresh, flavour-packed, and downright sublime. Even now, my mouth is watering just thinking about all my meals at Time Out. 

Aron SUSHI 
I’m usually not one to eat sushi outside of London or Copenhagen, but Miro is a sushi fiend, so I always try to cater to his cravings—especially if we’re in a city that’s not landlocked. I searched for top-rated sushi spots near our hotel and stumbled upon Aron Sushi. Honestly, it turned out to be one of the best sushi experiences of my life. The fish was unbelievably fresh, the menu was refreshingly free of over-the-top “fusion” gimmicks—just pure, flawless sushi that blew us away. We loved it so much; we went back a second time.

The only downsides? You must book ahead—it’s a small, cosy space that fills up fast—and it’s pricier than some of the excellent options at Time Out Market. But truly, you only live once. Run here!

O Velho Eurico
Every food bible raves about this place, so naturally, I had to try it. I couldn’t get a reservation, so Miro and I turned up and waited… and waited… over three hours. Here’s the thing: a long wait messes with your judgment. You’re so hungry you want the food to be mind-blowing. My honest verdict? It was good, but not great—the dessert was the only truly memorable part.

The vibe is… lively. One of the waiters walks around pouring liquor straight into diners’ mouths, which people seem to love. Maybe I’m showing my age, but I passed. Fun for some, but I just wanted my food. My advice: If you can make a reservation, go for it. If not, don’t waste three hours of your life.

Castro – Atelier de Pasteis de Nata
If you’ve got a sweet tooth like me, you must have pasteis de nata in Lisbon—it’s non-negotiable. Castro has multiple locations, and I tried them both at Time Out Market and at a standalone shop in the city. Both were excellent. Eat as many as you can while you’re here and take a box home.

Santini Express for Gelato
I never skip gelato whenever I visit Europe, and Lisbon was no exception. Santini didn’t disappoint. Creamy, rich, and full of flavour—well worth a pitstop!

Laurentina – King Of Cod
I don’t normally “name and shame” restaurants, but this one deserves a warning label. Please, avoid Laurentina at all costs. I made the mistake of taking a recommendation from my Uber driver, and it turned out to be the worst meal of the trip. The food was awful, the place was a tourist trap through and through, and the hygiene was downright questionable—I saw cockroaches running around. Ignore the glowing Google and TripAdvisor reviews. This restaurant is absolutely disgusting! You’ve been warned.

Drink Here!
Copenhagen Coffee Lab By Rua De S. Paulo 62
I’ll admit, I was sceptical about visiting a coffee shop with such a Scandi name in Lisbon — it felt a bit contrived and unoriginal. But I was in the area, desperate for an iced coffee and iced matcha to cool down, so Miro and I decided to give it a go. Wow. Do not skip this place. The space is huge, modern, and effortlessly cool, with an open, airy feel that lets you really enjoy your food and drinks without feeling cramped. In warmer months, all the large doors swing open, so it feels like the streets of Lisbon flow right into the café — grab a stool near one of them for the perfect inside–outside experience. As for the drinks and food? Exceptional. Honestly, it rivals some of the best cafés I’ve been to in Copenhagen, so maybe the name is more fitting than I thought.

Hello, Kristof
Another excellent café serving delicious food is Hello, Kristof. I loved it here too, but be warned — it’s a much smaller space, so there’s often a queue and you might feel rushed. Still, if you’re after a quick, tasty bite without lingering, this spot is a winner.

Shop Here!
Ceramicas Na Linha 
If you know me, you know I’m obsessed with ceramic bowls, plates, vases, and cups. I used to buy them from places like Arket, but now I have a strict rule: I only buy ceramics when I travel. Since I don’t really drink anymore, I no longer collect wine — I collect ceramics instead. While researching shopping spots in Lisbon, this place came up as a top recommendation, so I trusted the tip and went. Wow. Loved it. Run here! The selection is stunning, the craftsmanship beautiful, and everything is surprisingly affordable. I only picked up a couple of mugs because I was travelling with hand luggage, but they’ve become my absolute favourites. Next time I’m in Lisbon, I’ll be checking in a suitcase to stock up here.

The Fantastic World Of Portuguese Sardines 
Yes, it’s one of the most touristy things you can do — buying sardines and other seafood in Lisbon — but trust me, it’s worth it. The tins are not only delicious but make for such great eye candy. They make great gifts, and I especially love that you can buy tins marked with someone’s year of birth for a personal touch. I stocked up on sardines and seafood tins for friends and family, and they were a hit.

Touristy Loves!
Ride the 28 Tram
Lisbon is breathtakingly beautiful and incredibly photogenic. While the best way to experience it is often on foot, the city’s steep hills can be a workout. For a more relaxed way to explore, hop on the iconic Tram 28. It winds through some of Lisbon’s prettiest neighbourhoods, offering postcard-worthy views — and it’s an experience in itself.

MAAT: Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology 
This is easily one of my favourite museums in the world. Architecturally, it’s captivating — a stunning structure that curves along the waterfront with sweeping views over the River Tagus and the city. If you can, take a boat from the city centre to MAAT. Cruising along the Tagus and arriving by water makes the visit even more special.

LX Factory 
Lisbon’s answer to Brooklyn or Shoreditch, LX Factory is a vibrant hub full of independent shops, cool eateries, bars, and street art. It’s buzzing with creativity and the perfect place to spend an afternoon wandering, eating, and discovering.

Fado Music
Lisbon has music woven into its cultural fabric, and fado is its beating heart. You’ll find it everywhere — from ticketed performances in intimate venues to street artists filling the night air with soulful melodies. One of my favourite memories was stumbling across a street performance in Santa Maria Maior. Whether you pay for a show or enjoy it for free, don’t leave without experiencing fado.

Other Recommendations!
On our last trip to Lisbon, a signalling issue in the UK meant Miro and I unexpectedly had an extra three days in Portugal. Instead of staying put in the city, we decided to explore other parts of the country—and it was hands down the best decision we made. Here’s how we did it and my top recommendations.
Rent a Car – This is the key to unlocking Portugal beyond Lisbon. It’s far more flexible than public transport and surprisingly affordable. We hired a Fiat Mini Elite via Europcar for two days and paid just €29.37. It's an absolute bargain.
Sintra – An absolute must-visit. Imagine fairy-tale castles and palaces with striking Hispanic-Moorish influences. It’s dreamy!
Cascais – Another unmissable stop. Think golden beaches, stunning villas, and all the charm of a resort town. Don’t miss Marechal Carmona Park—lush, green, and picture-perfect—and Mercado Da Villa, where I had some of the freshest, most divine seafood of my life.
Praia de Adraga – Quite simply one of the most breathtaking beaches I’ve ever set foot on.
Colares – A postcard-perfect municipality with authentic Portuguese charm and incredible beaches.
Estoril – Known as one of Portugal’s most exclusive places to live, often attracting royalty—but when I visited, it felt totally open and welcoming. And yes, the beaches are beautiful here too.

All in all, rent a car and carve out your own Portugal adventure. Trust me, you won’t regret it. PS: Don’t forget to pack loads of books and sunscreen!