Full disclosure: this trip was never in my 2025 plans. Originally, it was meant to be a boys’ adventure for Miro and his best friend: a drive from London down to Dover, a quick ferry across to Calais, and then a full-on road trip through the Loire Valley. But as fate would have it, scheduling conflicts got in the way, and I “reluctantly” volunteered to step in. Let’s be honest, there was no reluctance at all.
I’ve always romanticised the idea of an international road trip. The only other time I’d experienced anything like it was back in 2015, when I’d just completed my PhD. Miro gifted me a trip through France and Belgium, with Bruges as the highlight. It was unforgettable: cobblestone streets, winding canals, rich history, and the thrill of discovering hidden corners of Europe at our own pace. Ever since then, I’ve kept the idea of another cross-country adventure tucked away on my wish list. So, when the Loire opportunity presented itself a decade later, I didn’t need to think twice.
And what a trip it turned out to be. To call it one of my best ever feels like an understatement. The Loire Valley has a way of seducing you: think endless stretches of villages that feel untouched by time, storybook châteaux rising in the distance, the kind of “old world” beauty that makes you pause mid-sentence. The best comparison I can give is this: the same way we rave about the Cotswolds in England — charming, timeless, picturesque — the Loire offers that feeling on repeat, multiplied by hundreds. Every village seemed to carry its own unique magic.
However, what set this journey apart was not just the destination but the way we travelled. For the first time in over seven years, I didn’t plan an itinerary. No over-curated routes, no checklists of “must-sees.” Instead, we surrendered to the road, allowing spontaneity to guide us. And in that surrender, the trip revealed itself in ways I could never have orchestrated — each detour, each unplanned stop, unfolding like a gift. It reminded me that true luxury in travel isn’t excess; it’s freedom.
This is a trip I already know I’ll repeat in 2026. But until then, I hope these reflections inspire you to consider your own escape to the Loire.
Love, Tofi Caroline xx
Stay Here!
Château de Perreux, The Originals Collection
I debated long and hard with myself about whether to gatekeep this château. It’s that good. The kind of place you almost want to keep off Instagram, selfishly hoping it remains quietly tucked away in its own pocket of the Loire Valley. But I’m not that person, so here I am, sharing with the class: run, don’t walk, to Château de Perreux. Don’t overthink it — just book!
If you do, here’s my biggest piece of advice: splurge on a Privilege Room. It’s absolutely worth the extra coin — spacious, elegant, and filled with the kind of subtle touches that make you feel less like a guest and more like nobility who’s returned home.
The château itself is striking — a historic estate with expansive grounds, a pool for slow afternoons, and an atmosphere that makes you pause the moment you step through its gates. The details are what stay with you: the staff gifting guests jars of honey harvested on the property (a small but unforgettable gesture that feels distinctly old-world French), and a breakfast served at EUR17 per person. While the food itself is nothing to write home about, the experience of sitting in a centuries-old dining hall, coffee in hand, sunlight streaming across old-world architecture — that is the luxury.
I won’t spoil all its secrets here, because part of the magic lies in discovering them for yourself — the quiet corners, the details you only notice when you slow down, the feeling of stepping out of time.
If I were to offer one critique, it’s that there’s still untapped potential for the château to truly elevate itself. But perhaps that’s exactly why it’s so special right now. It doesn’t feel commercial, overexposed, or curated for the masses. It feels personal — refined without being pretentious, charming without being contrived.
Don’t Stay Here!
Escale Oceania Orléans
Let me save you the trouble and coin: do not stay here! I booked a night at Escale Oceania Orléans purely as a pit stop after Miro’s heroic eight-hour drive from Calais. The main draw? On-site parking. The photos online looked promising too, projecting a boutique/mini-château, freshly refurbished vibe. In reality, those pictures must have been taken years ago, because what we arrived at was a far cry from the glossy imagery.
The biggest red flag? When we woke up at 9 am, the car park, which had been full the night before, was completely empty. It seems most guests had made their escape at dawn. If you absolutely must stay here, avoid the ground-floor rooms at all costs. They are damp, dated, and stale. Insist on a higher floor, where the rooms are at least marginally better. Otherwise, do yourself a favour and look elsewhere.
Eat Here!
Well In Town Orléans
Did this brasserie blow me away? Absolutely not. If it were in London, I’d probably never return. But under the circumstances, it was a welcome refuge. With no research, no reservations (which, let me tell you, is practically a sin in France), and the city half-shut because it was August — when everyone in France seems to disappear for their holidays — we were grateful for a hot meal, warm service, and a lovely outdoor table right in the centre of town.
I ordered fish and chips, Miro had a four-cheese pizza — both safe choices, both fine. Avoid the pasta dishes; they looked universally disappointing. What made the experience worthwhile, however, was the vibe: sitting outside, soaking in the bustle of Orléans on a summer evening. And one thing you must order? The kombucha by Les Wazos Flous. It was hands down the best kombucha I’ve ever had. I only wish I could have bought bottles to bring home.
Sauvage à Chargé
Now this place is worth every kilometre of detour. Sauvage is a wine and beer bar serving small European plates, perched right on the banks of the Loire. “Picturesque” doesn’t even begin to cover it. Imagine sipping wine with the river glinting at sunset, the atmosphere unpretentious yet effortlessly chic. If this were London, you’d queue for four hours, pay triple, and still leave unsatisfied. Here, it feels natural, almost indulgent in its simplicity.
And a tip: it doubles as a shop. Don’t leave without picking up a bottle (or two) of wine to take home, either for yourself or as the perfect gift.
Boulangerie Jouvençon (Saint-Hilaire-Saint-Mesmin)
This was, without question, one of the highlights of the entire trip. We stumbled upon Boulangerie Jouvençon entirely by chance, and it turned out to be the best bakery experience I’ve ever had. We stopped only because Miro noticed a queue of locals clutching baguette bags — always a good sign in France. I’m glad he convinced me, because the baguette and canelés we bought here were nothing short of perfection.
I still regret not buying extras to bring back to London. Honestly, eating here was a stark reminder that no bakery in London — no matter how “artisanal” — comes close. It was sublime and ridiculously inexpensive. This is the kind of place you salivate about long after your trip is over (I’m salivating even thinking about the baguette right now!).
Drink Here!
Choux Chaud Thé (Saint-Dyé-sur-Loire)
Half supermarket, half café, Choux Chaud Thé is the sort of unassuming local spot that ends up stealing your heart. We discovered it while wandering through Saint-Dyé-sur-Loire, and the coffee was superb — strong, balanced, exactly what we needed.
A few notes for fellow coffee lovers: Flat Whites don’t really exist in France. If you want something similar, order an americano — their version comes very close. If you prefer stronger coffee with just a touch of milk, go for a café noisette(Miro’s go-to). Sit outside if you can, and just watch life unfold around you.
Shop Here!
Dans Ma Maison (Saint-Dyé-sur-Loire)
I can’t take credit for this discovery — it was Miro who stumbled across this antique shop, and I will forever be grateful. This isn’t just an antique shop; it’s a treasure trove, the kind of place you dream about finding but rarely do. Every single piece feels carefully chosen, beautifully displayed, and perfectly preserved. No dusty corners or chaotic piles to rummage through — everything here is curated with a collector’s eye and a designer’s hand.
Leather, silver spoons, gold lamps that feel like they belong in a Parisian film set — the selection is extraordinary. I ended up leaving with a vintage leather bag, a mirrored lipstick case, a lamp, and a clock with its own fitted case — all chic, timeless, and surprisingly affordable.
The owners, who also run the shop, are warm and genuinely knowledgeable. Dans Ma Maison will always be a must-visit when I return to the Loire.
Touristy Loves!
Chateau de Chambord
If you only visit one château in the Loire Valley, let it be Chambord. Grand, opulent, and dripping with history, it is the largest and most dazzling château in the region. Built as a hunting lodge for Francis I, it embodies French Renaissance architecture at its most majestic — a seamless blend of medieval forms with classical Renaissance detailing.
Inside, there are over 60 rooms to explore, each one more ornate than the last. For me, it was a feast for the eyes — spiralling staircases, vast fireplaces, intricate carvings — all speaking to centuries of artistry and ambition. But Chambord isn’t just frozen in the past. During World War II, it became a sanctuary for thousands of artworks, hidden away to protect them from bombings and the greed of the Nazi regime. Knowing that, as you walk its halls, adds another layer of awe.
Practicalities: parking is EUR6 per car, and entry to the château and gardens is EUR19 per person. My tip? Pack a picnic or take a book with you. The gardens are sprawling and surprisingly peaceful, offering moments of solitude. Before leaving, pick up a bottle of wine from the château’s vineyard — a beautiful souvenir that feels truly connected to the land.
Cathedrale Sainte-Croix d’Orléans
One of the highlights of Orléans for me was this cathedral. This Gothic masterpiece is open to the public and remarkably serene, allowing you to wander its vast interior without disruption.
The cathedral is the seat of the Bishop of Orléans and holds relics dating back to the 7th century — a fact that left me completely humbled. To stand in a space that has held faith and history for over a millennium is nothing short of profound.
Marche d’Amboise
I never skip a local market when travelling, so when I heard about the Sunday market in Amboise, I knew we had to go. Parking is free on Sundays, so we had nothing to lose, and boy, was I glad we did.
I came home with fresh tomatoes, green beans, and garlic — all simple, local, and impossibly flavourful. The tomatoes became the best pasta sauce I’ve ever cooked; the green beans, sweet and crisp, turned an ordinary dinner into something special. Yummy!
Other Recommendations!
The Loire Valley is not a place you “tick off” in one trip — it’s a region that reveals itself differently each time you return. That’s why I’ve deliberately written this guide out of sequence: your Loire adventure should feel like your own story, not a replica of someone else’s. Next year, when I return, I won’t be retracing my exact journey. There is too much beauty, character, and life here to ever limit yourself to a single route. Instead, let me share some key points that will be useful.
P&O Ferries – We sailed from Dover to Calais, which was far more affordable than taking the train. There’s something almost cinematic about being on deck as the sun rises over the Channel. It’s a slow, grounding way to begin your French escape.
Travel by Car – Bring a car or rent one once you’re in France. Coaches will keep you bound to a timetable, but the Loire deserves freedom. A car lets you chase curiosity — veering off to discover an unnamed hamlet, a bakery tucked into a stone lane, or a vineyard that wasn’t even on your radar. Ensure your paperwork (insurance too!) is in order and, if driving from the UK, that your plates display GB clearly.
Skip the Motorways – The motorway might get you there faster, but it robs you of the magic. On our return, we opted for speed and drove the motorway back to Calais — it was flat, functional, and uninspiring. By contrast, the drive from Calais to Orléans on smaller roads was spellbinding. We stumbled upon storybook villages, crumbling chateaux peeking through forests, and fields that seemed to stretch into infinity.
French McDonald’s (Yes, Really) – I never thought I’d be recommending fast food, but here we are. When you’re driving across rural France, especially on a Sunday when nothing is open, McDonald’s is often the only option. And yet, French McDonald’s is not what you expect — cleaner, better quality, and, dare I say, more delicious.
Ultimately, the Loire Valley is best savoured when you give yourself the freedom to roam. Don’t chain yourself to a set itinerary. Instead, rent a car, wander through unknown roads, stop when something catches your eye, and let the Loire reveal its version of magic just for you. Trust me: the joy lies not in replicating, but in discovering your very own Loire Valley story.
