La Dolce Vita — the “sweet life” or the “good life” — was the phrase that kept echoing in my mind during my recent trip to Rome. I’ve been lucky enough to visit the city twice before, but this time something clicked. I think it came down to three things: the perfect weather, a meticulously curated itinerary, and where I am in life right now.
My first visit was in December about six years ago. It was magical in its way. I saw Pope Francis three times and tasted one of my life's best gelatos. It was a trip full of firsts. But being December, the mild yet cool weather meant I couldn’t fully soak up that open-air Roman charm.
The second time was in April, about three years ago, when I made the mistake of handing over all the planning to my travel companion. It turned out… underwhelming. Lesson learned: whether in travel or any other aspect of life, you can’t sit in the backseat and expect to be truly satisfied. You have to be involved!
This third time, I took the reins completely. I researched obsessively and built an itinerary that captured La Dolce Vita to the fullest — from the best restaurants and bars to charming cafés. The weather was sublime. Normally, I dislike anywhere over 29°C, but there’s something about wandering a beautiful city for three days in 35°C heat that works.
And here’s a top tip: August is one of the cheapest months to visit Rome (and most Italian cities). If you can handle the heat, it’s an affordable, golden-window opportunity.
I hope this guide inspires you to visit Rome for the first time or revisit it with fresh eyes. Maybe it’ll even make you reminisce about your own Roman adventures and tempt you to return for another taste of La Dolce Vita.
Love, Tofi Caroline xx
Get Around!
Transportation
From the airport, you’ve got plenty of transport options. If you’re travelling with fewer than three people, I recommend the Leonardo Express. It runs every 15 minutes, gets you to Termini Station in just 32 minutes, and costs €17.90 per person. For groups of three or more, a taxi might be more economical, costing between €50 and €80. Since it was just the two of us, Miro and I opted for the Leonardo Express.
Getting around Rome is just as flexible. I suggest buying an advance ticket if you’re staying for three days or more. You can purchase this at a ticket machine or desk, or online. We chose the €22, 72-hour pass, which gave us unlimited access to public transport, entry to two museums, and discounted performance tickets. Still, I’d highly recommend walking as much as possible — it’s the best way to stumble upon Rome’s hidden corners and charming streets.
Stay Here!
The Hoxton, Rome
I’ve had the pleasure of staying at this hotel twice, with almost three years between visits—and it still managed to blow me away. I adore this place for so many reasons. First, it’s spotless and feels incredibly safe. Like Hoxton hotels around the world, it attracts just the right crowd—a perfect mix of millennials and Gen Zs. The style is another win: the décor is modern, dreamy, and effortlessly chic.
The staff is warm, welcoming, and genuinely helpful, which makes a big difference. Another perk? If you book directly on their website and give them advance notice—either at reservation or check-in—you can check in early or check out late for free.
On the downside, there’s no gym or pool, which feels almost criminal for a hotel in Rome. And while the location might not be ideal for everything beyond visiting Villa Borghese, I personally enjoy being away from the city’s intense hustle and bustle.
Pro tip: Book early. I paid €250 for a “Cosy Up” room for two nights, with free cancellation until 30 July 2025, by booking in September 2024 for an August 2025 trip. When I checked a week before travelling, the same room was nearly €600. Alternatively, you could join the Hoxton Dis-loyalty programme for discounted rates—but bear in mind there’s a monthly membership fee.
If you’d prefer a more central location, my first stay in Rome was at the Art’otel Rome Piazza Sallustio. It’s way pricier than the Hoxton, but worth considering.
Whatever you choose, don’t cut corners on accommodation—Rome has a reputation for terrible hotels, and this is one place where it’s worth spending a bit more.
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Eat Here vs. DON’T Eat Here!
Trattoria Da Enzo El 29
Let me start with the one place you should avoid at all costs. This spot was, at best, incredibly disappointing.
I had done my homework—every food guide I trust listed it as one of the city’s must-visit dinner spots. So, for me, it was a no-brainer. The fact that they don’t take reservations didn’t put me off; I was determined to try it. I arrived at 3 p.m., spent an hour at a nearby bar, then queued for the rest of the time—determined to be first in line. And we were.
Between our arrival and the 6:30 p.m. opening, I noticed a steady stream of food tours dropping off hordes of tourists. That should have been my first red flag. The diners’ faces had that euphoric “this must be amazing” look—often seen when people want to believe the hype. My second red flag came when I overheard a waiter telling someone that, in his three years there, about 90% of diners were tourists. Sure enough, by opening time, there were 60–70 people waiting, and I’d bet almost all were visitors, judging by the variety of languages being spoken.
Still, after waiting so long, Miro and I decided to give it a shot. Big mistake. The dishes tasted like something I’d make when I’m exhausted, missing key ingredients, and desperately trying to salvage a meal that’s already gone wrong.
Save yourself the money—and the dignity. Go anywhere else. Truly, anywhere.
Mercato Centrale Roma
Instead, head here. Think of it as a far better, more authentic version of Eataly in Rome. I finally tried Trapizzino for the first time—an Italian pizza pocket stuffed with classic Italian and Roman flavours—and it was worth the hype. I also enjoyed fresh green juices, perfectly crisp arancini, and panini-style sandwiches.
The market is bursting with options from regional Italian specialities to Asian cuisines. Yes, it’s located at Termini Station, and no, it’s not fine dining, but the food here is cheaper and far more delicious than what you’ll find in most restaurants.
GINGER Pantheon
This well-known restaurant chain in Rome supposedly has a good reputation. I picked the location near the Pantheon since I was headed that way—and it also takes reservations. I chose Ginger because it had glowing reviews and was highly recommended for its Aussie-style breakfast—think fresh ingredients, acai bowls, and juices.
To say I was disappointed is an understatement. The warning sign should have been the menu—it read like a thesis on breakfast. I ordered avocado and salmon on toast with a matcha latte, while Miro went for an acai bowl and coffee. His was just about acceptable. Mine? Awful. The salmon was completely off, rank, and the matcha latte tasted like something you’d serve someone you truly disliked: no flavour, no trace of proper matcha, just an iced green liquid of regret.
I couldn’t eat the food, and to add insult to injury, the price already had a tip baked in. Save your money and head to Faro Coffee instead—for excellent coffee and delicious breakfast and brunch options.
Elio
Located inside the Hoxton Hotel, Elio was a pleasant surprise. I usually avoid hotel restaurants, but I popped in for something small to tide me over before dinner—and I’m glad I did. The food was excellent, the drinks were lovely, and the portions? Extremely generous. Start with just one main and build from there—you’ll thank me later.
Cecconi’s Rome
Cecconi’s is the kind of place I’d usually skip in London, but I was craving a picante and decided to book dinner here. It did not disappoint. Is it sacrilege to say this was my best dinner in Rome? Possibly. But I’m being honest. If you can access Soho House Rome, do yourself a favour and eat here.
Giolittio Rome
No European holiday is complete without gelato, especially in Italy. I chose Giolittio for its storied history and prime location near the Trevi Fountain and Spanish Steps. I ordered pistachio and salted caramel. Was it life-changing? No. Have I had better, even in Rome? Absolutely. I’m noticing a pattern here: in Rome, the spots drowning in thousands of glowing reviews often teeter dangerously close to what we’d call “tourist traps” back in London.
Drink Here!
Faro Coffee Rome
For delicious coffee, do yourself a massive favour and head here. You are welcome!
Touristy Loves!
Villa Borghese
A stunning public garden that I can’t recommend enough. Think London’s Hyde Park or New York’s Central Park—beautifully manicured grounds, elegant architecture, boat rides, and even a zoo. The first time I wandered in was by accident, as it’s close to the Hoxton Hotel, but it quickly became a favourite. The second time, I made sure Miro experienced it too. We spent over an hour exploring, and he loved it so much he went back for an afternoon jog (which, for the record, I do not recommend in early August)
Vatican City
I adore this place. This was my second visit, but my first time stepping inside Saint Peter’s Basilica—and wow. It’s the most breathtaking building I’ve ever seen. Even now, I get chills just thinking about it—an absolute must.
Alternative Options!
I spent so much time researching Rome that I ended up with a list of highly recommended spots I didn’t get to try myself. I’m sharing them below if you’re staying longer and want a few extra options.
Alternative Food Options
• Masto Testaccio
• Trattoria Pennestri
• La Fraschetta Di Castel Sant'angelo
• Il Teverna Dei Fori Imperiali
• Forno Roscioli
• Mordi E Vai
• Da Cesare Al Casaletto
• Roscioli Salumeria Con Cucina
• La Gensola
• Cesare Al Casaletto
• Bonci Pizzarium
• Alle Carette Pizza
• Supplizio
• Pinsitaly Trevi
Alternative Drinks
• Bibliobar Roma
• Ai Tre Scalini Rome
• Spaccio Grosso Rome
Alternative Bakery and Gelato
• La Pasticceria Regoli For Baked Goods
• Fatamorgana Gelato
Alternative Coffee
• Sensorio Coffee Lab
• Casa Mattti
• BAP Rome
• Barnum Rome
Alternative Tourist Spots
• A Vittorio Emanuele II
• Orto Botanico
• Fondazione Pastificio Cerere Art Gallery
• Sant’andrea De Scaphis Art Gallery
• Verano Monumental Cemetery
• The Pantheon
• Explore The Trastavere Area
• Colosseum